Exploring the Culture of Little Havana

A  Learning Community Project (School of Education, the College of Arts and Science and Eaton Residential College, University of Miami)

The New Cuban Cuisine

 The Cuban style of cooking is simple in concept but complex in flavor. Much Cuban food owes its heritage and tradition from Africa and neighboring, Caribbean cultures. However, there are two distinctive styles of cooking: "the classic" whose techniques and ingredients have been in use for a long time across the island, and "the new," labeled nuevo Cubano, which adds a variety of herbs and spices from other cuisine and emphasizes presentation. For example, the province of Oriente, in eastern Cuba, is well known for its contribution of spicier and more robust dishes to the cuisine of the island due to the influx of Haitian and Jamaican immigrants to the island beginning in the 1790's. In the states, Cubans, too, have opted to choose hot peppers, like blazing scotchbonnets and serranos, to prepare recipes such as black bean salsa.

Cubans who arrived in the United States in the late 50's and 60's had to make some adaptations to their cooking. Many markets did not carry the vegetables, fruits or cuts of meat that they were accustomed to using in their island kitchens. Lard and olive oil, which are generally used in Cuban cooking, had to be replaced by other cooking oils. Lard was too difficult to find and olive oil was too expensive; a substitute had to be found. Cooks started using vegetable oil, which was readily available and affordable. Nowadays, safflower and canola oils have become more preferable because they are healthier. Many items are now also available in low-fat versions. The consumption of salt has too been cut back thanks to low- sodium products.

Many Cubans in exile, such as my neighbor, Roca Beiro, a professional caterer whom I had the opportunity to interview, informed me that many Cubans have cut down on the starches they consume and that they try to follow a healthier diet. Due to the lack of time in their day to day life, many buy products, such as black beans, because preparing them from scratch is very time consuming. In addition, Cubans have added more salads to their diet, use less sauces, and prepare fewer potajes (stews). They have also adapted more American foods into their daily life since their children are exposed to them at school and through their acquaintance with endless chains of fast food restaurants in their communities. For example, breakfast in Cuba usually consists of café con leche and tostada (coffee with milk and Cuban toast). Today, many have grown to enjoy eggs and ham along with their traditional tostada and café con leche.

Traditional recipes included excess fat, salt, and sugar. Many Cubans have now adapted their diets, by adding healthier alternatives, without sacrificing taste or texture. The following recipes are dishes you may sample in restaurants throughout Miami.

Black Bean, Jicama, and Corn Salsa

1/2 cup canned black beans                                                                     2 cups canned corn, drained                                                                    1 cup peeled and diced jicama                                                                 1 cup minced red onion                                                                           2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced                                                        1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil                                                                     2 tablespoons fresh lime juice salt to taste                                                 1 serrano seco, diced (serrano seco pepper is orange-red and measures about 2" long. Adds real zip.)

Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl. Allow to marinate overnight so that flavors meld.

Sauteed Red Snapper with Cilantro Butter Sauce

Sauce

1 1/2 cups dry white wine                                                                       1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro                                                                 1 tablespoon whipping  cream                                                                  1 tablespoon chopped shallots                                                              1/2 bay leaf

Fish

3 tablespoons olive oil                                                                              4 (6-ounce) opakapaka or red snapper fillets                                          1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces

For sauce: Boil all ingredients in heavy medium saucepan until liquid is reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 10 minutes. Strain through sieve set over heavy small saucepan, pressing on solids with back of spoon. May be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

For fish: Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Season fish with salt and pepper. Add fish to skillet and cook until cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. 

Meanwhile, bring sauce to simmer. Gradually add butter 1 piece at a time, whisking just until melted.

Spoon sauce onto plates. Place fish atop sauce.

Yield: 4 servings

Yuca with Garlic

1 medium ( 1 1/2-pound) yuca                                                                1/3 cup olive oil                                                                                       1 teaspoon kosher salt                                                                            1/3 cup fresh lime juice                                                                            1 tablespoon ( about 3 cloves) garlic, minced

Using a knife, peel yuca and cut into halves lengthwise. With point of knife, remove center string and chop into bite-size pieces. Combine yuca and salt in a large saucepan and cover with water by 2 to 3 inches. Bring to boil, then lower heat and simmer gently, covered, for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, combine lime juice, garlic and olive oil in a serving bowl. When yuca is done, drain thoroughly. Toss with lime juice and oil mixture. Serve warm.

Note: Cooking yuca at a hard boil will cause it to break apart.

Yield : 4 servings

Mango Mousse

This rich and delicious tropical combination of flavors makes the perfect summer dessert. For a glamorous presentation, fill balloon wineglasses with the mousse and garnish with mango slices.

2 Brooks mangoes                                                                                  2 1/2 tablespoons honey                                                                          2 tablespoons fresh lime juice                                                                   1 1/4 cups heavy cream                                                                           2 egg whites

Cut the mangoes on both sides of the pit. Reserve a few slices for decoration. Scoop out all the rest of the flesh and puree in a blender or food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the honey and lime juice and puree until smooth. Whip cream to soft peaks; fold into mango mixture.

Beat egg whites until stiff. Stir half of whites into mousse, blending well. Fold in remaining egg whites, making sure there are no lumps. Spoon into individual dessert glasses or a serving bowl. Garnish with mango slices.

Yield: 8 servings

Danielle Rosario